Midnite Solar Classic and DM Solar 145 watt Panel Testing

Todays video is from our forum member B. Kelly and he is testing 2 DM Solar 145 watt panels today in 93-99 degree heat. They are wired in series to get 24 volts nominal and the battery bank is a simple DC27 marine 12 volt battery. Maximum watts that he caught while checking on it was 210 watts at 93 degrees at 10:25 am and 174-179 watts at 12:05 pm at 98-99 degrees. Not bad for a HOT day.

The charge controller is a Midnite Solar Classic 150 MPPT. The wiring is 15' of 10AWG PV wire to simulate a real wire run.

Keep in mind the controller was out in the heat also so output would be lowered as well as you not supposed to do this. The controller needs to be in doors and are tested at 25'C which is 77'F.. the controller internals were at 53'C (per the meter) which is way above the 40'C derating.




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Connecting Your Solar Systems Batteries in Parallel and Series

OK, sure these are simple basic videos. But we can't emphasize enough how important safety is and making sure you are wiring your batteries up properly.

Increase Battery Amp/Hours - Connecting Batteries in Parallel



Increase Battery Voltage - Connecting Inverter/Charger Batteries in Series




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Supergokue1: How to be Off the Grid With Solar Power

Supergokue1 has got quite the DIY system and yet it is very simple. Looks like Harbor Freight panels but like so many he has opted for a different charge controller.



Visit the Harbor Freight 45 Watt Solar Panel Kit Community Forum, a great way to get started!

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Solar John: Mounting Solar Panels on Your Roof

From guest blogger Solar John.....

To operate at peak efficiency, solar panels should be aligned perpendicular to the sun. But since the sun’s position in the sky is constantly changing, frequent manual alignment is not practical. While solar trackers, which automatically align the panels for the sun’s daily east to west transition, are available, they are expensive and prone to failure. A less-expensive option is to mount the panels facing south, and to include an easy way to adjust the tilt in order to compensate for the position of the sun in the sky as the seasons change.

While the summer sun appears almost directly overhead at mid-day, winter sun appears to the south. The drawing below shows the sun’s position, and the approximate best angle for roof-mounted panels for the summer and winter seasons.



To determine the optimum angle for your solar panel for each season, you’ll first need to know the latitude for your location. You can find that information here:

http://www.weatherunderground.com/

The website listed below allows you to enter the latitude for your location, and then calculates the optimum angle for each of the twelve months of the year:

http://www.wattsun.com/resources/calculators/photovoltaic_tilt.html

While you probably don’t want to change the angle every month, changing it two to four times per year will improve the performance of your array. Using data for my location, I’ve decided to use a 25 degree angle for spring and summer, and 50 degrees for fall and winter. Since my roof is already at a 17 degree angle, my panel mounts need to make up the difference, or an additional 8 degrees for the spring and summer position, and an additional 33 degrees for fall and winter. To measure the angles, I’ve purchased the tool shown below from my local hardware store:



I made my panel mounts using 1” X 1” X 1/8” angle aluminum. I start by cutting two long pieces, one for each side of each panel. I securely mount those to the frame of each solar panel. I then cut the top and bottom legs, and the feet. I’ve decided to make the bottom legs three inches in length. Elevating the panels three inches above the roof allows plenty of air to circulate under the panels, keeping them from overheating. This is an important design consideration because solar panels loose efficiency at high temperatures. The upper legs, as shown in the photo below, are 8” in length. The difference between the length of the lower and upper legs results in the additional 8 degrees of tilt that I need for my summer configuration. Longer upper legs will be used in the fall and winter months. While only two panels are shown here, additional panels can easily be added along side the others. To do that, the legs between the panels need to be modified slightly.



Legs are attached to 3” feet, made from the same aluminum angle stock. I used 2 ½” stainless steel lag screws to securely mount the assembly to the roof. To prevent leaks, I’ve used a generous amount of clear silicon sealer under the feet as I attached them to the roof. To eliminate the possibility of rust, I used stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers to hold everything together.



I’m fortunate to have a south-facing roof on which to install my solar panels. Array mounting would be more complicated, and expensive, if my roof were east-west oriented. Shading from the array in the spring and summer helps to reduce heat in the attic. Notice in the photo that the panel's junction box is at the top, and therefore easily accessible.

An advantage to the steep winter configuration is that snow quickly falls off of the panels.

I'm confidant that this mounting structure will withstand high winds, and I've trimmed nearby trees to prevent damage from blowing and falling limbs. I should not experience shading from nearby trees execpt in the very early morning and again very late in the day. I look forward to the day when six more panels are added to this array.

Solar John


Visit the Harbor Freight 45 Watt Solar Panel Kit Community Forum, a great way to get started!


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Testing a Solar Panel

Great video for those of you that have never tested a solar panel. Remember.... SAFETY FIRST! Solar panels do not have an on/off switch.



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How to Provide Care and Maintenance for Your Battery

If you have done any research on how batteries work or what you should look for when selecting a battery, you are probably buried in information, some of which is conflicting. At BatteryStuff, we aim to clear that up a bit.You have most likely heard the term K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, Stupid). I am going to attempt to explain how lead acid batteries work and what they need without burying you with a bunch of needless technical data. I have found that battery data will vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer, so I will do my best to boil that data down. This means I may generalize a bit, while staying true to purpose.

The commercial use of the lead acid battery is over 100 years old. The same chemical principal that is being used to store energy is basicly the same as our Great Grandparents may have used.

If you can grasp the basics you will have fewer battery problems and will gain greater battery performance, reliability, and longevity. I suggest you read the entire tutorial, however I have indexed all the information for a quick read and easy reference.

A battery is like a piggy bank. If you keep taking out and putting nothing back you soon will have nothing. Present day chassis battery power requirements are huge. Consider today’s vehicle and all the electrical devices that must be supplied. All these electronics require a source of reliable power, and poor battery condition can cause expensive electronic component failure. Did you know that the average auto has 11 pounds of wire in the electrical system? Look at RVs and boats with all the electrical gadgets that require power. It was not long ago when trailers or motor homes had only a single 12 volt house battery. Today it is standard to have two or more house batteries powering inverters up to 4000 watts.

Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Life span depends on usage; 6 months to 48 months, yet only 30% of all batteries actually reach the 48 month mark.

A Few Basics


The Lead Acid battery is made up of plates, lead, and lead oxide (various other elements are used to change density, hardness, porosity, etc.) with a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution. This solution is called electrolyte, which causes a chemical reaction that produce electrons. When you test a battery with a hydrometer, you are measuring the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. If your reading is low, that means the chemistry that makes electrons is lacking. So where did the sulfur go? It is resting on the battery plates and when you recharge the battery, the sulfur returns to the electrolyte.

1. We must think safety when we are working around and with batteries. Remove all jewelry. After all you don't want to melt your watchband while you are wearing the watch. The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. We have seen several instances of batteries blowing up and drenching everything in sulfuric acid. That is no fun, and would have been a good time to use those safety goggles that are hanging on the wall. Heck, just break out your disco outfit. Polyester is not affected by Sulfuric Acid, but anything with cotton will be eaten up. If you do not feel the need to make a fashion statement just wear junk clothes, after all Polyester is still out of style. When doing electrical work on vehicles it is best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember you are messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and 100's amps of electrical current.

2. Basically there are two types of lead acid batteries (along with 3 sub categories); The two main types are Starting (cranking), and Deep Cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and therefore has a greater plate count. The plates are thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less instant energy, but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications because the thinner plates are more prone to warping and pitting when discharged. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is a compromise between the two types of batteries, though it is better to be more specific if possible.

3. Wet Cell (flooded), Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are various versions of the lead acid battery. The Wet cell comes in two styles; Serviceable and Maintenance free. Both are filled with electrolyte and are basicly the same. I prefer one that I can add water to and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer. The Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel Cell and some AGM batteries may require a special charging rate. If you want the best,most versatile type, consideration should be given to the AGM battery for applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few. If you don't use or operate your equipment daily, AGM batteries will hold their charge better that other types. If you must depend on top-notch battery performance, spend the extra money. Gel Cell batteries still are being sold but AGM batteries are replacing them in most applications. There is a some common confusion regarding AGM batteries because different manufactures call them by different names; some of the more common names are "sealed regulated valve", "dry cell", "non spillable", and "Valve Regulated Lead Acid" batteries. In most cases AGM batteries will give greater life span and greater cycle life than a wet cell battery.
SPECIAL NOTE about Gel Batteries: It is very common for individuals to use the term GEL CELL when referring to sealed, maintenance free batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue or "Xerox machine" when referring to a copy machine. Be very careful when specifying a battery charger, many times we are told by customer they are requiring a charger for a Gel Cell battery and in fact the battery is not a Gel Cell.


AGM: The Absorbed Glass Matt construction allows the electrolyte to be suspended in close proximity with the plates active material. In theory, this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. Common manufacturer applications include high performance engine starting, power sports, deep cycle, solar and storage battery. The larger AGM batteries we sell are typically good deep cycle batteries and they deliver their best life performance if recharged before allowed to drop below the 50% discharge rate. The Scorpion powersports batteries we carry are a nice upgrade from your stock flooded battery, and the Odyssey branded batteries are fantastic for holding their static charge over long periods of non use. When Deep Cycle AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of no less than 60% the cycle life will be 300 plus cycles.

GEL: The Gel Cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a Gel Cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltage on this type of cell is lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. This is probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.

4. CCA, CA, AH and RC. What are these all about? These are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a battery.

Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather.This measurement is not particularly important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement.

CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F. This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA). Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used any longer but is measured at 80 ° F.

Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 ° F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts.

An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. If a battery is rated at 100 amp hours it should deliver 5 amps for 20 hours, 20 amps for 5 hours, etc.

5. Battery Maintenance is an important issue. The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water solution; a couple of table spoons to a pint of water. Cable connections need to be cleaned and tightened as battery problems are often caused by dirty and loose connections. A serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral free water, Distilled is best as all impurities have been removed, and there is nothing left that could contaminate your cells. Don't overfill battery cells especially in warmer weather because the natural fluid expansion in hot weather can push excess electrolytes from the battery. To prevent corrosion of cables on top post batteries use a small bead of silicon sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. Most folks don't know that just the gases from the battery condensing on metal parts cause most corrosion.

6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.

*Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.

The results of your testing should be as follows:

Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell.

If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery.

When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help.

7. Selecting a Battery - When buying a new battery I suggest you purchase a battery with the greatest reserve capacity or amp hour rating possible. Of course the physical size, cable hook up, and terminal type must be a consideration. You may want to consider a Gel Cell or an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a Wet Cell if the application is in a harsher environment or the battery is not going to receive regular maintenance and charging.

Be sure to purchase the correct type of battery for the job it must do. Remember that engine starting batteries and deep cycle batteries are different. Freshness of a new battery is very important. The longer a battery sits and is not re-charged the more damaging sulfation build up there may be on the plates. Most batteries have a date of manufacture code on them. The month is indicated by a letter 'A' being January and a number '4' being 2004. C4 would tell us the battery was manufactured in March 2004. Remember the fresher the better. The letter "i" is not used because it can be confused with #1.

Battery warranties are figured in the favor of battery manufactures. Let's say you buy a 60-month warranty battery and it lives 41 months. The warranty is pro-rated so when taking the months used against the full retail price of the battery you end up paying about the same money as if you purchased the battery at the sale price. This makes the manufacturer happy. What makes me happy is to exceed the warranty. Let me assure you it can be done.

8. Battery life and performance - Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Two phrases I hear most often are "my battery won't take a charge, and my battery won't hold a charge". Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 4 -month mark. In fact 80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies. The causes of sulfation are numerous. Let me list some for you.


Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather.
Battery is stored without some type of energy input.
"Deep cycling" an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can't stand deep discharge.
Undercharging of a battery to only 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated by the incompleted charging cycle.
Heat of 100 plus F., increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110 degrees F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
Low electrolyte level - battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging.
Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. A deeply discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather.
Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. More info on parasitic drain will follow in this document.

There are ways to greatly increase battery life and performance. All the products we sell are targeted to improve performance and battery life.

An example: Let's say you have "toys"; an ATV, classic car, antique car, boat, Harley, etc. You most likely don't use these toys 365 days a year as you do your car. Many of these toys are seasonal so they are stored. What happens to the batteries? Most batteries that supply energy to power our toys only last 2 seasons. You must keep these batteries from sulfating or buy new ones. We sell products to prevent and reverse sulfation. The PulseTech products are patented electronic devices that reverse and prevent sulfation. Also Battery Equaliser, a chemical battery additive, has proven itself very effective in improving battery life and performance. Other devices such as Solar Trickle Chargers are a great option for battery maintenance.

Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. Most vehicles have clocks, engine management computers, alarm systems, etc. In the case of a boat you may have an automatic bilge pump, radio, GPS, etc. These devices may all be operating without the engine running. You may have parasitic loads caused by a short in the electrical system. If you are always having dead battery problems most likely the parasitic drain is excessive. The constant low or dead battery caused by excessive parasitic energy drain will dramatically shorten battery life. If this is a problem you are having, check out the Priority Start and Marine Priority Start to prevent dead batteries before they happen. This special computer switch will turn off your engine start battery before all the starting energy is drained. This technology will prevent you from deep cycling your starting battery.

9. Battery Charging - Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't the battery sulfates and that affects performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging. Please note that only special SMART CHARGERS using computer technology can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores and Wal-Marts. The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged. Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some Gel Cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers.

10. Battery Do's
Think Safety First.
Do read entire tutorial
Do regular inspection and maintenance especially in hot weather.
Do recharge batteries immediately after discharge.
Do buy the highest RC reserve capacity or AH amp hour battery that will fit your configuration.

11. Battery Don'ts
Don't forget safety first.
Don't add new electrolyte (acid).
Don't use unregulated high output battery chargers to charge batteries.
Don't place your equipment and toys into storage without some type of device to keep the battery charged.
Don't disconnect battery cables while the engine is running (your battery acts as a filter).
Don't put off recharging batteries.
Don't add tap water as it may contain minerals that will contaminate the electrolyte.
Don't discharge a battery any deeper than you possibly have to.
Don't let a battery get hot to the touch and boil violently when charging.
Don't mix size and types of batteries.

There are many points and details we have not written about because we wanted to keep this as short and simple as possible. Further information can be found at the links below. If you are aware of sites with good battery maintenance information please let me know.

For click here additional battery Tutorial's


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Off Grid Renewable Energy Solar Wind Setup Part 1

From shonerboner....

We have 2 Evergreen Solar panels 180 watts each, Tristar 60Amp Controller, 2, 400 watt Air-x wind generators, about 8 marine deep cycle batteries from walmart now. A 250A DC breakerbox from Midnight Solar, Xantrex DR-2412 2400Watt Inverter, and a Reliance transfer switch. So far the system has cost about $6,000 with everything overbuilt to be upgradeable with more solar panels as soon as we get some more funding!



Seven reasons why you absolutely need your own home made energy

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Alternative Solar Energy Mountain Cabin Project

Prime example of a homemade solar energy system in a remote location.



Living Off The Grid - Build a Wind Generator. Just Click Here!

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DIY 12 Volt DC Solar Panel System

This is a popular video that shows a better example then most of how to use breaker boxes etc. on even our smallest systems. repairguy000 combining 2 sets of Harbor Freight 45 Watt Solar Panel Kits.



Solar Energy Home Guide

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Enviergys Home Solar Setup

First video of my batteries, inverter and regulator setup.



Save Money, Build Your Own Solar Panels

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How to Install Battery Banks for Solar Energy

The battery bank gets the needed voltage to individual inverters. Learn about the battery bank for solar power from a professional in this free energy conservation video.



Earth Energy For The Home - Top Guide For Home Solar & Wind Power Systems!

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New World Solar

After enjoying do it yourself solar project videos please visit our parent site New World Solar. Our mission is to help you reduce your home energy costs while helping to protect the future of our planet.

Discover How Solar Energy Can Help Save You Money And The Environment at The Same Time. In the face of ever increasing energy bills and global warming, we aim to give you the information required for you to make your mind up whether solar energy is right for you.

You might be interested in producing your own solar energy, or you might prefer building your own wind generator. Now we won't try to confuse you with facts and figures about solar energy that only a scientist would understand. This site is here to show you - in laymans terms - how a few simple measures can dramatically lower your carbon emmissions and fuel bills.

Basically, solar energy is the technology of obtaining usable energy from the light of the sun. Solar power has been used in many traditional technologies for centuries.

And on this web site we hope we can show you how we can use this power in everyday activities.

The Secrets to Building Your Own Solar Energy System.....For Under $200!